An article about Lee Kuan Yew, the grand old man of Singapore, in the New York Times reminded me of the mid-1980's when I visited Singapore many times and came to admire what Lee Kuan Yew achieved even though there was a feeling of "Big Brother" keeping a watchful eye over the inhabitants of Singapore. Ocean transportation -- the most economical means of moving large volumes of cargo from one country to another -- continues its role in international trade. The industry embraced modernization by adopting cargo containers in the late 1960's. Then more functions were computerized and the interaction between shippers and carriers slowly ceased to be an important part of the business I knew and enjoyed being a part of for many years. My career began in Calcutta, India, and ended in the San Francisco Bay Area. In those days offices of steamship lines and freight brokers were located in or around California Street, San Francisco. No longer so. Nowadays, modern communication systems have made it possible to run a steamship company far away from ports of call. A few employees handle operations and sales instead of large offices bustling with staff. Popular among steamship company employees, Tadich Grill is still there, but Paolis on Commercial Street and Doro's on Jackson Square are gone. Neckties for men were de rigueur at Don Dianda's Doro's. Historical Merchants Exchange Building, which was home of Commercial Club -- another gathering place for the shipping fraternity -- changed ownership in 1995 and went through extensive renovation. The staid World Trade Club, located in the Ferry Building, served mediocre food but offered a great view of the Bay. It went bankrupt in 2006. The late Herb Caen wrote in one of his columns: "San Francisco has the charms of Sydney, the style of London, and the rascality of Paris." A great city. On a clear day it offers breathtaking views. It was while working for a Danish shipping company in San Francisco that I heard of JHM, known as "Mogi" Mogensen who was talked about as "Our Man in Bangkok". As the country manager of the company in Thailand for almost a decade, Mogi was legendary. Years later, employed with a different company I met him in Singapore when he came to pick me up from the airport on my first trip to that city. Subsequently, he moved to California and we worked together for a few years. A tall, courtly man, Mogi followed some old world customs. For one thing, he always put his jacket on before meeting a visitor. He returned to Copenhagen in 2006 but continued to be active in the chartering business. We remained in touch, with meetings during his periodic visits to the United States. He had been suffering from melanoma for some years. The condition gradually worsened. Mogi died on Feb 16, 2011. His last message read: Tks yr phone call & your concern. A very belated Happy Thanksgiving! I was hospitalized witn an infection and could not write you but back home today - I am still under chemo-therapy treatment which to continue until 2nd half january, I think. Wish I could get out jogging again! Brgds/Mogi Seamus Heaney, in "Human Chain" The Baler All day the clunk of a baler Ongoing, cardiac-dull, So taken for granted It was evening before I came to To what I was hearing And missing: summer’s richest hours As they had been to begin with, Fork-lifted, sweated-through And nearly rewarded enough By the giddied-up race of a tractor At the end of the day Last-lapping a hayfield. But what I also remembered As woodpigeons sued at the edge Of thirty gleaned acres And I stood inhaling the cool In a dusk Eldorado Of mighty cylindrical bales Was Derek Hill’s saying, The last time he sat at our table, He could bear no longer to watch The sun going down And asking please to be put With his back to the window.

Cañada Road, A Haven for Bicyclists, Runners, and Walkers The seven-mile stretch of Cañada Road, between Highway 92 on the north and Woodside Road on the south, is always pleasant for runners, hikers, and bicyclists. Scenic and popular. On Sundays, the road is closed to vehicular traffic and streams of bicyclists enjoy it without worrying about cars. It offers great views of Upper Crystal Springs Reservoir, and the hiking trail, which is parallel to the road, leads to Huddart County Park and Phleger Estate. Once you are in Huddart Park there are other trails to explore. Recommend hiking up to Skyline via Miramontes or Raymundo trail accessible from Phleger Estate. In summer months, rattle snakes like the trails. Watch for them; keep your distance. Wile E. Coyote Mailbox @ Musafir The Wile E. Coyote mailbox opposite the gate to SF Water District Rangers' Quarters never fails to make me chuckle. Easy to miss if you are driving by. Must have been there for years. The box is built to last but there is no mail delivery for Wile E. Coyote. Whoever put that up had a sense of humor. Thank you. View of Upper Crystal Springs Reservoire across from the mailbox @ Musafir Although Huddart Park is part of the San Mateo County park system, Phleger Estate is under GGNRA (Golden Gate National Recreation Area). So, maps for Huddart Park do not show details of that segment. Between Highway 92 and the T-Junction of Cañada Road/Edgewood Road, approximately halfway to the Woodside end, there are other points of interest. Filoli requires admission fee. Starting at the northern end, Pulgas Water Temple would be on your right, about 1 mile from Highway 92. Half a mile further, on the left, is a small gate to Sheep Camp Trail (no bicyclists permitted). Sheep Camp Trail leads to the Cross Country Course. One can exit the trail by going past the gate, crossing St James Road and continuing on to Water Dog Lake or, at the foot of the trail, turning left on Hallmark Drive to access Ralston Road. Go left on Ralston for about half a mile and take bike path next to the commuter parking lot to return to Cañada Road. Note: During Fall when competitive events are scheduled, the Cross Country Course of Sheep Camp is restricted to participants. Hikers and runners can still use the trail from Cañada Road to St James Road. Comments Susan Vento — 2013-05-06 Hi Musafir, I have a quick question regarding your blog. If you could send me an email when you get a chance, I would greatly appreciate it! Best, Sue musafir — 2013-05-06 Need your email address.

Amour,the new film by Michael Haneke, is an Oscar contender in two categories – best film, best director. Haneke succeeded in depicting the loving relationship that existed between a husband and wife. A relationship that physical and mental degradation which often results from old age and lingering illness, failed to destroy. Most of the reviewers gave “Amour” high rating. Yet, many of them did so with warnings about the grimness and depressing effects. The film deals with a subject that many of us avoid thinking about. All of us know that age takes its toll. If we live long enough, we’ll lose the ability to enjoy most of the things that give us pleasure. Eventually, there will come a stage when not only there will be no joy in living but pain and discomfort will overcome all else. We’ll end up in bed, sustained by medication and fed tasteless food. And, for some, that could mean a long time in the twilight zone. But death will come to all of us. It was famed San Francisco advertising executive Howard Gossage who said: “Dying is regarded as bad taste in this society inspite of the fact that 10 out of 10 people do it.” In “Amour”, Haneke brought us the final days of an elderly couple trying to cope with death....face it with dignity. I happened to watch the film at a theater in Menlo Park, CA. Reaction of the mostly elderly, and female, audience was somber but appreciative. That could be due to the locale. A film like “Amour” is not likely to be found in theaters in small towns in the mid-west or south. Those who believe that life and death are in the hands of someone up in the sky would shun films like “Amour”. It is a film for those who believe that being alive means more than being “clinically alive”.

Train Journeys Between Kolkata and Jamshedpur The New Yorker never fails to give pleasure. During my subscription of more than thirty years, it has gone through a number of changes in format and in management.The stable of writers and contributors continue to produce interesting, thought-provoking articles, short stories, poems, and photographs. Tina Brown's tenure as editor was not noteworthy. She went on to do other things. Good riddance. Reading Sameer And The Samosas by Daniyal Mueenuddin in the December 3rd issue took me back to the days when I rode the train between Jamshedpur, known as the Steel Town, and Calcutta. The train stations were Tatanagar and Howrah. In those days, Jamshedpur belonged to the state of Bihar. In 2000, it became part of the newly designated Jharkhand State. Mueenuddin wrote about his return from America to Pakistan to run the family farm that belonged to his father. The link above is for an abstract, not the complete article. Always enjoy reading his short stories. It was his description of samosas (singaras, to Bengalis) that triggered a trip to memory lane. From "Sameer and the Samosas" by Daniyal Mueenuddin - The New Yorker 12/3/2012. “At the farm, I lived more and more according to routines, because only that way could I escape the paralyzing dread that sometimes came over me, the sense that I could trust no one, and that soon I would be driven away, to do God only knows what, to leave Pakistan a failure and work in America. Fezoo brought tea out to me, as he did each evening, in the center of the lawn, and then, returning into the house, came out with a platter covered with a white embroidered handkerchief. “What’s this? “I asked, sniffing the scent of fried food. I had decided while living at the farm, to keep to a strict diet: no booze, protein for breakfast and lunch, fruit for dinner, no snacks. At afternoon tea, Fezoo was to give me exactly three biscuits, in the evening, none. Thought I drank endless cups of tea and glasses of lemonade, I lived with a little, gnawing hunger, a mortification. “Chaudhry Sameer Sahib sent this from his own kitchen, made by his wife,”Fezoo answered. “Samosas.” “I’ll take just one, “I said, lifting the white cloth which was dabbed here and there with the oil that had soaked through. The samosas were smaller than they usually are, two bites, very crisp, and fragrant, but with a minty fragrance. Lifted one of the carefully folded delicacies, looked at it, and then crunched into it. Delicious! Hot beef minced with spices crumbled onto my tongue. Fezoo had put the dish on the table, next to the tea things, and now I waved him away. “That’s fine, that’s fine,” I said. Six more samosas, like browned pats of butter, sat on the dish. The layered crusts flaked off onto the plate, which had an oily sheen. Sameer’s wife had even taken the trouble to heat the platter, to keep the treats warm. I washed my palette with the milky tea, then lifted by its corner another of the dainty triangular morsels. Fabulous! This one had a different filling, little bits of potato, almost crunchy, and so spicy that my eyes watered. Another bite and it was gone. I must stop Pouring myself more tea, adding milk and sugar, I eyed the platter, still charged with five delicate samosas. Each one seemed particular, unique, itself. I laughed. “For fuck’s sake,” I said to myself “Don’t be such a fucking prune.” My stomach growled with eagerness. I took a sip of the newly poured tea, too hot, almost burning my tongue, then reached for another samosa. Different again! This one had a tomato and chicken filling, sweetish but generously peppered. I worked my way through all the food on the platter, all the samosas, then finally, completely abandoning myself, licked the platter itself, and even that had a complex nutty Flavor, the flakes of crust melting in my mouth. ” Mouth watering! The samosas (singaras) commonly available in Indian and Pakistani stores and restaurants in America are big, lumpy, with heavy, greasy crust, and filled with overspiced mashed potato. A far cry from the delicate mouthfuls described by Daniyal Mueenuddin. Hard to believe that good samosas have become extinct. Surely they exist in small, neighborhood tea shops in Kolkata that have not yet given in to the "bigger is better" concept. Delicious, small samosas were available at Mecheda rail station. In the sixties, when I traveled between Jamshedpur and Howrah, the night train made a brief stop at Mecheda in the early morning. Mecheda, approx. 35 miles past the major rail junction Kharagpur, well known for being the home of Indian Institute of Technology (IIT). Vendors walked the platform carrying baskets of freshly made samosas and pots of tea poured into earthen containers. Nothing fancy, like minced beef, or chicken and tomato filled samosas, just diced potatoes. When winter vegetables were in season there would be tiny florets of cauliflower mixed with the potato. They were great. I hope they have not disappeared, become a victim of progress. After the morning tea, accompanied by samosas, we prepared to disembark at Howrah and face the hustle bustle of the big city.

* The Louts Call It "Eve teasing" The young woman victim of the gang rape in Delhi died. Sad. And maddening. Civilized nation? Not. The 23-year-old – who was severely beaten, raped and thrown out of a moving bus in Delhi – died on Friday in the Singapore hospital where she was being treated. The unprecedented public protests might force the government to take some meaningful action to curb despicable behavior, long condoned. But it will take more than government action to see a change in the boorish behavior of Indians -- especially, North Indian males. There has to be broad changes in the attitude of a society dominated by men whose mindset is decades behind.

But Do They Practise What They Preach? The clock is ticking. 38 days before November 6th. The first debate between the incumbent, Barack Obama, and Republican candidate Mitt Romeny is scheduled to be held October 3rd at Denver. With all the problems facing our country, a large percentage of Republicans are still fixated on "non-issues". Among them, the sexual habits of consenting adults -- pre-marital sex, contraception, sodomy, homosexuality. What gives? One wonders whether Republican men stay away from erectile dysfunction medication. Not too long ago, former presidential candidate Robert Dole was a spokesman for Viagra. Yet, when it comes to contraception rights for women, the same group goes ballistic. Imagine a prayer before; then the missionary position; a prayer after. Or, probably more like "slam, bam, turn around and snore". No wonder they have Neanderthals like Todd Akin representing them. Mysoginistic is the right description. Polls show women voters moving away from the Republican platform. Rightly so. Hypocrisy of Republicans about sex is puzzling. Ryan is a true believer. Whether or not Mitt Romney agrees with the ultra conservative wing of the Republican Party, he has to toe the party line. Let's hope the Republican ticket gets buried on November 6th. “How did sex come to be thought of as dirty in the first place? God must have been a Republican.” ---Will Durst

Backpack trip from Crabtree Camp to Deer Lake In the first week of August, joined a group of friends (two Silicon Valley residents and one from Tifton, GA) for a backpack trip. The trip was planned by Sarbajit Ghosal, who did the research about trails, distance, and the logistics involved. Topo map We arrived at Crabtree Camp trail head in the late afternoon of August 1. Parked and took off for Bear Lake, apprx. 3.8 miles, for first night's stop. Camp Lake (2.8 miles from Crab Tree) is nicer but has limited options for camp sites. Darkness was setting in by the time we arrived at Bear Lake. Camp sites near the lake were occupied and we ended up in a rocky area. On Day 2, we broke camp and began hiking to Piute Lake. Except for missing a turn (see below) after the descent from Camp Lake and losing an hour it was uneventful. The trail meandered through meadows and rocky switchbacks. The segment between Piute Meadow and Piute Lake is demanding because of the gain in elevation. Arrived at Piute Lake about 5 PM and scouted for a good place to set up tents. Decided on base of the ridge looking down on the lake. An inconsiderate group of horseback riders camped across the lake and, disregarding rules, had their mounts tethered near the water. Next afternoon, the same group engaged in target practice with hand guns! Forest Service rangers do a great job, but it is not possible for them to closely monitor illegal activities. Day 3: We decided on a day trip to Gem Lake and beyond. Jewelry Lake and Deer Lake follow Gem Lake, all within easy hiking distance of Piute Lake. The lakes are scenic and worth the hike. Fishing at Deer Lake was unrewarding. Two backpackers returning from Buck Lake, about 2.5 miles further, said fishing was good there. After our return to Piute Lake it felt as though it might rain; the clouds looked threatening. That would have caused problem with fixing dinner. However, the clouds moved and we were able to light the stove. It was after dinner that we found that battery of the SteriPen water filter had gone dead. We used it a lot during the three days. And then the tube of the backup Katadyn filtration system broke. Taking stock of the filtered water, we made the decision to head back to trail head instead of spending the 4th night in tents as originally planned. On the 4th morning (Saturday) we found that camera batteries worked in the SteriPen. However, we decided against spending the night at Camp Lake or Bear Lake, and began the trek back to Crab Tree. After the ascent to Camp Lake, we took a long, relaxing break at the lake. Bret went for a swim. We cooled our feet in the bracingly cold water. Then on to Crab Tree Camp and the drive home to Bay area. Bret had a flight to catch on Sunday; others had to prepare to face a work week. All good things come to an end. We were fortunate in having mild weather; temperature remained in the 80's during the days; and the nights were in the high 50's. Miwok Ranger Station where we filed wilderness permit application © Musafir - Canon S3 At Crab Tree Camp Trail Head © Musafir - Canon S3 Camp Lake © Sarbajit Ghosal - Nikon P500 Bret starting a fire at Bear Lake camp site © Musafir - Canon S3 Ready to hit the trail after Bear Lake © Musafir - Canon S3 After descending from Camp Lake © Sarbajit Ghosal - Nikon P500 That was where we proceeded ahead alongside the stream instead of crossing the stream and taking the trail on the left. SG's handheld DeLorme GPS device was helpful in getting us back on track. Day 2, on the trail to Piute Lake © Sarbajit Ghosal - Nikon P500 Piute Meadow © Sarbajit Ghosal - Nikon P500 Camp ground at Piute Lake © Musafir - Canon S3 Bret's tent overlooking Piute Lake © Sarbajit Ghosal - Nikon P500 Day 3 - On the trail to Gem Lake. Checking topo map © Musafir - Canon S3 Corn Lily © Musafir - Canon S3 Gem Lake (8,230 ft) © Sarbajit Ghosal - Nikon P500 Jewelry Lake I © Sarbajit Ghosal - Nikon P500 Jewelry Lake II © Sarbajit Ghosal - Nikon P500 SG casting for trout at Deer Lake © Musafir - Canon S3 Deer Lake - 8,461 ft. © Sarbajit Ghosal - Nikon P500 Mariposa Lily © Musafir - Canon S3 Mountain Heather © Musafir - Canon S3 Orange Lily © Bret Wagenhorst Cirrus Clouds © Sarbajit Ghosal - Nikon P500 Campers doing target practice -- illegal © Sarbajit Ghosal - Nikon P500 Replenishing water at Lily Pad Pond between Piute Lake and Piute Meadow © Musafir - Canon S3 Before Camp Lake, Day 4 © Musafir - Canon S3 Reviving tired legs at Camp Lake © Sarbajit Ghosal - Nikon P500 Bret against burnt shell of a tree © Sarbajit Ghosal - Nikon P500 “….short-sighted men who in their greed and selfishness will, if permitted, rob our country of half its charm by their reckless extermination of all useful and beautiful wild things……” --Theodore Roosevelt Comments Bret — 2012-09-26 Beautiful photos from a marvellous trip. "before camp lake - day 4" looks a lot like the rolling "oak and grass" foothills of the sierras rather than the pine/spruce/fir studded rocky slopes and lush meadows of the Emigrant Wilderness. Hard to believe TR was a Republican. cheers, bw musafir — 2012-09-26 Re: day 4, you're right. When I took the shot I thought it looked "different". Regards

Lies, Halftruths, Distortions With 59 days before November 6th, the polls show that Barack Obama has a good chance of being re-elected. A lot can happen before November 6th to change the picture. In the meantime, millions of dollars are being spent on advertisements that are full of half-truths, distortions, and downright lies. Nothing new; we go through this in every presidential election cycle. But the Internet and instant dissemination of charges and counter-charges by the candidates are enough to make one dizzy. It cannot be denied that, from the war in Afghanistan to reform of Wall Street, Barack Obama retreated from his position and failed to deliver what he promised his supporters in 2008. But the messages from Mitt Romney and his VP pick, Paul Ryan, are far from clear or reassuring for the vast majority of voters. On the economic front, their top priority is to make the fat cats fatter by targeted tax cuts. It is hard to understand their Bible-thumping rhetoric. The Republican platform is a throwback to earlier times, especially where women's issues are concerned. Their obsession with sexual lives of citizens is puzzling. Example of hypocrisy at its worst.

* Another bigot. There they go again. Issue statements that are completely off the wall, and then retreat to the old standby -- "misspoke". As misstatements go, what the six-time Republican Congressman Todd Akin of Missouri said, was a doozy. One wonders what was he thinking. Of course, he said what he belived. The retreat and wiggling to put a spin on it resulted from the firestorm that followed his monumentally stupid comment, on live TV no less. Akin, a six-term congressman running against incumbent Democrat Sen. Claire McCaskill, was asked in an interview on St. Louis television station KTVI if he would support abortions for women who have been raped. "It seems to me first of all from what I understand from doctors that's really rare," Akin said. "If it's a legitimate rape, the female body has ways to try to shut that whole thing down," Akin said of a rape victim's chances of becoming pregnant. Too early to tell how the congressman would emerge from this. If he cannot survive the outrage he created, he can consider returning to his earlier, no doubt deeply held position about women and rape, and go on the speech circuit to promote it. Hard to believe, but many women still support Republicans. Perhaps some of them will buy his spiel and try to learn the secret of how to unlock the built-in resistance against pregnancy from rape. Congressman Akin could end up rich. Think of Bristol Palin giving speeches about protecting virginity!

* LADY DIVER Lady diverIs diving under the seaAnd is discovering the sea worldLady diverKnows that there is a lot to seeUnder the sea --Aldo Kraas (http://www.poemhunter.com/poem/lady-diver/) It was a spur of the moment decision that turned out to be very rewarding. We were en route to Big Sur to hike along the coast on July 4th when a friend suggested hiking at Point Lobos instead. Point Lobos, about 3 miles south of Carmel on Highway 1, is one of the crown jewels of the California State Park System. It was typical coastal weather on July 4th when we arrived at 11:00 AM. Overcast sky, temperature in the 60's. That didn't deter many other visitors from enjoying the park and the trails. There were many scuba divers, donning their gear to explore the undersea world. Wild flowers were in abundance We did the perimeter trail, stopping at various points to admire the view and take pictures. Took us Just over 4 hours, including a break for lunch. Picnics are permitted only at a few designated areas. The perimeter trail also offers views of the Monastery of Carmelite Sisters. Despite driving past the location numerous times, the monastery had never caught my attention. We made a slight detour to visit the Carmel Mission before heading home. A great day and, to top it off, traffic was surprisingly light on the 80-mile drive back to Santa Clara Valley. A few pictures taken on July 4, 2012 with a Canon Powershot S3IS. At the foot of the perimeter trail © Musafir Indian Paintbrush © Musafir A view of the shoreline at Point Lobos © Musafir A Monterey Cypress © Musafir Distant view of Carmelite Monastery © Musafir Wild flowers, I © Musafir Wild flowers, II © Musafir Morning Glory © Musafir A gathering of Cormorants © Musafir A Mule Deer © Musafir One of the coves viewed from the Perimeter Trail © Musafir Carmel Mission © Musafir A Mission Bell on the street opposite the Carmel Mission © Musafir